The Ethical Meat Handbook by Meredith Leigh

Author:Meredith Leigh
Language: eng
Format: epub
ISBN: 9781550926033
Publisher: New Society Publishers
Published: 2015-03-02T16:00:00+00:00

Pork

If you have spent any time in rural spaces, you have heard the saying, “A person is rich if he has land.” I maybe heard it first in school, in some text about Thomas Jefferson, and then heard it again in the deep Alabama drawl of my granddaddy, and then again from the mustachioed mouths of farmers when I moved to the country, to Old Fort, North Carolina. I heard it many, many times, but I never learned it like I did from pigs.

I grew up in the city, in a small apartment with my mother and brother, and I did not touch much earth, early on. I think the earliest and closest I ever got to the ground was in jumping from a tall tree house, in elementary school, so high that you could not come down without biting your tongue. Later, my mother did a lot of camping with us, and it was then that I first heard the giant hush inside of me. I didn’t know then what it was.

Now, I’m sitting under a tree, among a scattered group of foraging heritage pigs. The sun is filtering through the leaves, and the smell of dry pine and wet earth is even in my hair. I’m twirling a pinecone between my fingers; I’m getting dirty; and I’m squinting through the trees. I’m thinking about the land, watching the pigs as they love it, thoroughly, snuggling themselves into every inch of the soil’s folds, making masks of the cold mats of oak leaves, letting their bellies graze the sweet ground. Owning the place.

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